Friday 1 June 2012

Kafue Holiday - 25.4.12


What a great holiday! We went to Kafue National Park and stayed at Leopard Lodge. 

The drive down was somewhat eventful. We left at 7:30am and arrived at 1:30pm. For a fair part of the drive the road was bitumen. But just after Kasempa, the road became red dirt and sand. We had to go over the Lunga River by ferry and it is amazing how clear and clean the water is. Not like the Murray at all. By the end of the trip, I felt like a rally driver, going over bumps and dodging potholes. It was a good thing I was not driving. Poor Tom was sick in the car, and so we had a big mess to clean up. There were also a lot of villages along the way and surprisingly quite a few schools. It’s amazing to think the people we saw lived out there in the middle of no-where, with such poor living conditions. I have no idea when or if, they would even get to the nearest town. The poverty is incredible. We are trying to get the kids to understand how lucky and privileged they are.

On arrival, we were shown to a beautiful chalet. It had 2 bedrooms and a bathroom in between. The roof was thatched and so high, the beds covered by mosquito nets. The windows had no glass, only fly screens and curtains, so it felt so fresh and open. Leopard Lodge sits on the Kafue River, which flows very fast, and there is a dining / bar area that overlooks the water, so we had a snack there before heading out for an afternoon river cruise.

The river cruise was amazing. We could not have asked for more. We saw so many animals that night including crocodile, elephant, hippo, puku, impala and so many different species of bird. The kids had a ball. We even heard one of the elephants trumpet a warning at us, as we were close to the bank and they had calves in their herd.  We had been warned not to expect to see much, as the lodge is on the edge of the park, but we were very lucky. We returned to the lodge where a fire welcomed us along with a beautiful dinner under the stars.

The next morning we were up before the sun, to head out on a game drive. The mist was rising off the water and the sun was rising through the trees. It was a gorgeous morning. After cereal, we were bundled into an open air truck and wrapped up in ponchos. The amount of puku and impala around was incredible. They are absolutely everywhere. We first stopped at the hot springs. It is an old drilling area that now has boiling water coming up from the cracks in the ground. It was beautiful in the morning as we could see the steam in the early morning light. We even came across some elephant tracks. Apparently, the elephant come to get the mineral salts out of the water. We continued on with our drive. We came across wart hog and even 3 zebra grazing, which promptly ran at the sound of the truck, so unfortunately I was not able to get a photo. Probably just as well as I took about 300 over the 4 days! Such a shame I did not have my big lens, due it being still in Perth.

When we arrived back, we had breakfast number 2. Apparently cereal is not a proper breakfast. So out came the yoghurt and muesli, then the eggs, toast, bacon and beans. I think I have come home looking like a hippo with all the food. We certainly did not starve. We then had time to have a nap before going out again on an evening game drive. The food and fresh air certainly makes you tired.

We were not as lucky this time on the drive. We did not see anything more than what we had previously seen, but once the sun set, the stars were amazing. The kids thought it was wonderful to see as many stars as we did, such as the big dipper and the milky way! The kids love going out every night and seeing the stars before bed, it is a little ritual we have gotten into. We see a lot on site, but there are still street lights around. Out here on the drive, we only had the headlights and so could see thousands more. The fire was burning again on our arrival and this time 2 more guests. Two guys were out from London, visiting the mine in Solwezi and so we had a lovely chat over dinner, which was a braai. Again the food was gorgeous and plentiful.

The next morning we had a sleep in, and then were able to sit and watch the animals go by. It was a cold morning and so we enjoyed having a nice hot chocolate overlooking the river wrapped up in blankets. Once the guys got back from their short game drive, we headed off on the boat to the other side of the river into Kafue National Park proper. We got onto the truck and then did a drive around before lunch / breakfast. It was interesting to see the land on this side of the river as it was flatter and with fewer bushes. The flies (Tsetse – see Note) by this time were getting bad. They bite! So the guides collected some elephant dung to burn in tins on the side of the truck, it kept the flies away.  We found some lion tracks and so followed them for a while, but we had no luck in finding the beast. On our way back to the river, we came across another group of elephants. We could see them smelling us as we were up wind from them, but due to the burning elephant dung, they could not tell what we were. Their trunks were up in the air like telescopes from a submarine.

That night we went out for our last river cruise. We saw more elephants and hippo and again some beautiful birds. We watched as about 10 vultures circled then landed, so our guide hopped ashore to see if it was anything interesting. We were hoping a lion had made a kill, unfortunately not, they were only coming in to roost for the night. The guide then found us another spot with easier access, so we could get off the boat and have a drink. It was then that we heard a lion roar. It was incredible to think that this huge beast was out their roaming and we were listening to its roar, what a fantastic sound. The kids got a bit scared, thinking that the lion was going to come out and get us, so we boarded the boat for home. Such a truly African experience hearing the lion roar with the sun setting over the trees. We headed back down the river into the night as the sun set around us bringing some wonderful colour to the sky.

As we had dinner that night, a hippo made a grunt. It sounded so close that poor Laura was so scared it was going to come and get her that she ended up in tears. We decided to have an early night as she would not let Phil go. The guides were all laughing as were Phil and I, but she was truly scared.
After a beautiful night’s sleep, it was time to hit the road for home.  We said our goodbye’s and headed off.
We were prepared this time on our trip home and just as well, as poor Tom was sick again. Oh how I wish we had his ‘magic apron’ (a plastic backed towel made by Mama) with us. The trip home was a lot busier. We could not believe the amount of people out walking the road. Not a lot of traffic, only people heading home to who knows where.  
We really are very lucky. In that we are able to experience this adventure and have the comforts that we do. At the end of the day, we get to have a hot shower, food and hop into a warm comfortable bed. We know there will be food tomorrow and a roof over our heads.
I would recommend a visit to Leopard Lodge.


Africa - Tsetse Flies

There are 22 different species of tsetse fly, and they live only in Africa. These flies are slightly larger than a horsefly. They breed along rivers and streams. They are active during the day and feed exclusively on blood. Unlike most biting flies where only the female feeds on blood, both male and female tsetse flies are blood suckers.

Tsetse flies are an enormous health risk in parts of Africa. They can transmit a disease called trypanosomiasis, an infection of the central nervous system. There are 2 forms of trypanosomiasis: Rodesian (sometimes called East African trypanosomiasis) and Gambian (sometimes called West African trypanosomiasis). Rhodesian trypanosomiasis, also known as nagana, is transmitted from animal to animal and mostly affects cattle, horses, and wild animals like antelope--although humans can also be infected. The Gambian form is much more prevalent and only affects humans. It is commonly called sleeping sickness.

Tsetse flies transmit nagana and sleeping sickness through their saliva. They first bite an animal or person that is already infected with a tiny microorganism called a trypanosome. This parasite lives inside the tsetse fly's stomach for several days and then travels to its salivary glands. After that, anyone or anything bitten by the fly becomes infected.

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